How Garrard Became Britain's Crown Jeweller

About this episode

Princess Diana's sapphire ring, Queen Mary's crown and the Koh-i-Noor all lead back to one jewellery house: Garrard. In this episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the history of Garrard & Co, from its beginnings with George Wickes in 1735 to its appointment as the first official Crown Jeweller in 1843. They explain the difference between a royal warrant and the Crown Jeweller role, and why maintaining the Crown Jewels was as much a responsibility as an honour. The episode also looks at Garrard's most recognisable royal pieces, including the Koh-i-Noor, the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara, Queen Alexandra's Kokoshnik Tiara and Princess Diana's sapphire engagement ring, before turning to the house's modern identity and the loss of its Crown Jeweller title in 2007. Chapters: 00:00 Opening hook 00:26 Introducing Garrard & Co 01:33 Garrard and British royal jewellery 02:35 George Wickes and the 1735 beginning 04:10 Why the West End mattered 07:36 Location, Boucheron and Courtville 10:50 First royal patronage 11:24 Robert Garrard enters the business 13:06 Family ownership and later mergers 15:24 Asprey, ownership and identity 16:11 Garrard's style and royal reputation 16:46 Queen Victoria creates the Crown Jeweller role 18:01 Royal warrant vs Crown Jeweller 21:18 What the Crown Jeweller actually does 24:16 David Thomas and guarding the Crown Jewels 25:16 Iconic royal pieces 26:16 The Koh-i-Noor 27:36 The Great Exhibition and public reaction 29:41 Garrard and the Koh-i-Noor recut 30:24 Steam engine, Amsterdam cutters and 38 days 32:51 Queen Victoria and the Koh-i-Noor in jewellery 34:12 Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara 36:32 Queen Alexandra's Kokoshnik Tiara 39:35 Anastasia and the Kokoshnik in popular culture 42:17 Garrard's legacy 42:42 Princess Diana's sapphire engagement ring 44:41 Garrard today and the 2007 title loss 47:50 Jade Jagger and changing the brand 50:44 Gem Trivial Pursuit: exhibitions 01:01:06 Outro and credits